Like millions feeling the call to the Maha Kumbh 2025 in Prayagraj, Uttar Pradesh, I undertook this sacred pilgrimage, which occurs only once every 12 years. One lesson I learned was that no information, news clips, or social media can truly convey the Kumbh experience, as it is deeply personal for everyone.
One of the greatest blessings is to share a pilgrimage with a good companion, and I found that in my dear friend Radhika. Our journey to Prayagraj began from Bangalore to Kashi, fulfilling our shared wish to visit the Kashi Vishwanath Dham. By what felt like divine intervention, we had darshan of Mahadev on the very day we landed in Kashi. The palpable energy of the Kumbh was
already present in Kashi, as we navigated the throngs of people on the streets leading to the temple. Radhika’s quick thinking helped us find shortcuts through the inner lanes, eventually leading us to a place where we enjoyed a most satisfying Banarasi thali.
The following day, before our road trip to Prayagraj, we had early morning darshan at the Kala Bhairav temple, followed by a boat ride along the ghats, visiting the Durga temple and the Sankat Mochan Hanuman temple. As it was a Saturday, a day especially sacred to worship Lord Hanuman, the temple was crowded, but the atmosphere was peaceful, and we had a good darshan. In the temple courtyard, a group of devotees chanted “Sitaram, Sitaram” in kirtan, and
we joined in, feeling our hearts immersed in devotion. It was inspiring to see devotees praying to Lord Hanuman in their own ways. Some chanted the Hanuman Chalisa, some sang kirtans, while others sat in silent meditation. Amidst the bustling crowds, their bhakti created their intimate space with their lord. This is the beauty of Sanatana Dharma: the freedom to connect with the divine in one’s own way, unconstrained by dogma.
Our drive to Prayagraj began with warnings of heavy traffic. We braced ourselves for delays, but our stay was graciously hosted by a family friend whose home stay, located on the outskirts of the city, near Kumbh City, proved to be a blessing. We bypassed the congested highways, taking a detour through the countryside directly to our hosts’ home, where we were welcomed with typical North Indian warmth.
Our Kumbh experience began the next morning, a Sunday expected to be particularly crowded
due to the weekend and Republic Day. We set off at 4:00 AM with our hosts, who drove us as far as permitted. We then walked along the well lit streets, but already busy, roads towards Kumbh City in the chilly 9-degree air. We later learned that an astounding 1.34 crores (13.4 million) people visited the Kumbh that day.
As Radhika and I started our walk through Kumbh City, we realized we had many hours of walking ahead of us to see its different sectors. The well-planned Kumbh City encompasses approximately 40 square kilometers, divided into 25 sectors.
From this vantage point, the majestic Maha Kumbh festival revealed the profound spirituality woven into the fabric of Vedic Sanatana Dharma, influencing Indian culture, faith, governance, unity, and modernity.
The Kumbh’s origins are found in the ancient Hindu scriptures, the Puranas. The Shrimad
Bhagavad Purana and Vishnu Purana recount the Samudra Manthan—the churning of the ocean—a cosmic struggle between devas (divine beings) and asuras (demonic beings). This churning yielded poison, which Lord Shiva consumed, holding it in his throat and earning the name Neelkanth (blue-throated). The churning also produced Amrita (nectar), held in a pot by Lord Dhanvantari, the deity of Ayurveda. During the ensuing battle, four drops of nectar fell to earth, consecrating Prayagraj, Nasik, Ujjain, and Haridwar—the four sites of the Kumbh Mela, held cyclically according to specific astrological calculations as per Vedic Jyotish.
The Kumbh vividly showcases the spiritual culture of Vedic Sanatana Dharma. It is a confluence of Hindu spiritual orders known as Akharas (from “Akhand,” meaning indivisible), representing divinity and unity. Akharas provide a platform for those sharing similar practices and philosophies, blending spiritual learning with physical discipline. Their members, often saints and ascetics, are
well-versed in scriptures and yogic practices.
Primarily based in North India, the Akharas arose to organize Hindu dharma, maintain social order, and uphold moral values during the political and cultural Muslim invasions of the 13th to 18th centuries. The Akharas and their saints work for the betterment of society. At the Kumbh, their camps offer discourses for the general masses that guide them on leading a dharmic life and
pursuing the goal of life – moksha.
Faith is central to the Kumbh. Devotees travel from across India, representing diverse Hindu sects. United by their devotion to Ma Ganga, the Triveni Sangam, and spiritual purification, distinctions of caste, creed, social status, and education dissolve in a shared humanity.
The fundamental questions of human existence and purpose take center stage. Ashrams provide
Bhandara (food as a sacred offering), and despite the millions present, a sense of calm and order prevails. There is respect for others and a spirit of accommodation. It is a communion of diverse paths within Hinduism, all seeking union with the divine. The Vedic verse, “Ekam sat vipraha bahudha vadanti” (Truth is one, but the wise call it by many names), resonates deeply at the
Kumbh.
Millions walk for days, carrying their necessities and enduring uncomfortable travel conditions. They camp at the Kumbh in temporary accommodations despite the bitter cold. Yet, nothing deters them. A comfort-seeking tourist might find numerous challenges at the Kumbh, but for a devotee and pilgrim, faith transcends any discomfort. This, I believe, is their sankalpa—the unwavering will to uphold one’s faith, the inner strength that distinguishes a devotee.
Amidst the outward activity, the Kumbh offers a profound experience of inner silence. My sacred bath, snan in brahma muhurta at the Triveni Sangam was an indescribable experience —a sense of being washed by the deep silence of the sages that permeates the sacred waters of sangam.
As the active, solar Pingala nadi (Ganga) and the healing, lunar Ida nadi (Yamuna) merge into the central channel Sarasvati, as the Sushumna nadi, all dualities dissolve into the silence of Oneness.
Mauni Amavasya, the new moon day of silence, is particularly significant for its emphasis on inner purification and self-reflection. Silence nourishes the soul, guiding us toward truth and selfrealization. It is in silence that we delve into the divine essence of our being.
The Kumbh, renowned for its immense gatherings, has become a showcase of smart governance. The Uttar Pradesh state government and the central government, under the leadership of our honourable Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi Ji and Chief Minister Yogi Adityanath Ji, have employed massive force and leveraged AI technology to manage this grand festival of faith.
This includes deploying additional security personnel, emergency services (ambulances, medical care), and providing food, water, and sanitation for the estimated 400 million devotees visiting over 45 days of Maha Kumbh.
The Digital Maha Kumbh experience, an AI-powered walk-in theatre created in the Kumbh City, offers comprehensive information about the Kumbh’s history and spiritual significance in a creative, state-of-the-art presentation.
In collaboration with Google, detailed maps of the Maha Kumbh Mela, including the locations of Akharas, Ashrams, and emergency services, made navigation remarkably easy within the vast area of 40 sq kms.
As two solo women travelers, we never felt lost, uncomfortable, or unsafe in the massive crowds. When faith governs the masses, the administration’s work becomes easier.
All these arrangements reflect the administration’s commitment to serving the devotees.
The Kumbh is a profound experience, and invokes deep introspection. It showcases millions who prioritize faith over material possessions and comfort, reminding us that, irrespective of our backgrounds, we all yearn for the same things: inner peace and a sense of union. From the most privileged to the most unassuming, all converge on a same ground as a seeker.
For meditators and truth seekers, the Triveni Sangam is an inner journey. The true Kumbh lies not just in physical attendance, but in the quest for this inner confluence of Ida, Pingala and Sushumna within.
Har Har Mahadev! Jai Shree Ram! Jai Jai Hanuman!
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